Luxurious trend homes are opening eating places all all over the world

Gennady Oreshkin observes the rising pattern of elevated culinary eating places opened by trend homes, the place he quickly finds himself in an indulgent spiral.

As luxurious purveyors of the approach to life universe have rushed to diversify by opening cafes and eating places all over the world, take into account the case of Christian Dior and his tome, La Delicacies Cousu-Essential (1972). A high-fashion cookbook first conceived within the Nineteen Thirties when Dior holidayed within the South of France, it was illustrated by the textile impresario himself with assist from Italian trend illustrator René Gruau (whose signature drawing model nonetheless conjures up designers far and huge).

This Holy Grail of trend delicacies options the prolific couturier’s favorite poached eggs fürstenberg, red-mullet escabeche, and chocolate pompadour with crème Anglais. “If cooking is to be thought of clever work, then one’s arms should act as devoted performers,” instructs the chef Raymond Thulier quoting Dior within the guide’s preface. 

So what higher manner for the Home of Dior to honour its founder’s appreciation for good meals on the fiftieth anniversary of the guide’s publication, than by providing the maison’s top-spenders a style of La Delicacies Cousu-Essential’s delicacies?


Vogue and its enduring ties to meals have been sung, written and gossiped about for hundreds of years. Marie Antoinette’s urge for food for sweetmeats was matched solely by her alleged fervid fascination with diamonds – or not less than in accordance with Alexandre Dumas’ The Queen’s Necklace. Throughout final 20 years, nonetheless, luxurious purveyors have put their cash the place their mouth is by opening own-brand emporiums of esculents, from Los Angeles to Tokyo, serving excessive artistry in plates and glasses.

If embarking on a journey to go to such temples of indulgence customary by the artistic minds that rule the posh realm, the place to begin have to be Tokyo – and, assuming one occurs to own a time machine, the popular 12 months to drop by could be 2004. Practically 20 years in the past, when the cast-iron shackles of social media have been merely shabby plastic zip-ties, trend manufacturers weren’t all that all for increasing past their then-narrow areas of experience. Boutiques didn’t have an existential have to compete for site visitors with cyber actual property.

But, there was one trend big whose precognitive imaginative and prescient led it to show itself as soon as once more as luxurious’s chief innovator: Chanel. The restaurant Beige Alain Ducasse Tokyo, established that very same 12 months by an inventive collaboration between the style home and Ducasse Paris, sits on the tenth ground of the Chanel Ginza Constructing, its partial raison d’être being to encourage shoppers to spend extra time within the constructing. In 2018, nonetheless, the freshly renovated Beige turned a manner for Chanel to supply its high clientele a brand new aspect of retail – consider it as a predecessor of the maison’s soon-to-open personal boutiques for ultra-elite patrons, the place the highest 1 per cent of the 1 percenters are entertained.


Right now, Beige is helmed by Kei Kojima, Ducasse’s former proper hand of greater than a decade, whose intensive coaching in French haute delicacies and Japanese heritage make him the one particular person possible to go Chanel’s culinary outpost within the Land of the Rising Solar. We’re informed Kojima sources the greens himself from the fields of Kamakura, the place he can sense the passing of time – don’t neglect the traditional Japanese calendar is split into 24 mini-seasons – and mirror on the seasonality-centred philosophy Ducasse swears by. “As in a trend assortment, in delicacies too the sense of the seasons is essential,” says the French chef.

The restaurant is as subtle as Coco Chanel’s favorite color, therefore the title. “That is the French modern restaurant in Tokyo, a package deal of design, environment, concord, savoir-faire, refinement and French style. It was two years of laborious work and brainstorming and a discount of all of the necessities of high French gastronomy. It’s the correct restaurant for this second. It must be like this, only for Tokyo. It’s one restaurant, one spirit, one philosophy, distinctive,” was how Ducasse described it in a 2007 interview with Status.

The terrace, which boasts the coquettish title Le Jardin de Tweed, is unsurprisingly a love letter to the fabric so adored by the model’s founder. Naturally, the style big may solely belief the one who designed all its boutiques, Peter Marino, to conceive the restaurant – and all the constructing with it.


Two different famend creations of the American architect – Le Cafe V and Sugalabo V – might be present in Osaka, each belonging to Louis Vuitton and run by chef Yosuke Suga, who labored for Gault Millau Chef of the Century, Joël Robuchon, for 17 years earlier than beginning his personal enterprise. Le Cafe V is a seductive and refined but playful house, a concord of vivid color and mesmerising shapes.

Hanging vegetation, egg-shaped chairs in teal and sky-blue counter seats yield of their extravagance solely to the café’s chocolatier counter. Sugalabo V, alternatively, is what actually encapsulates the model’s penchant for exclusivity. Hidden inside Le Cafe V, it’s an invitation-only restaurant customary after Suga’s personal intimate Tokyo house and is coated in chocolate-brown wooden with brass accents, and embellished with jewel-toned seats and monochromatic rhomboid tiles. Tying the 2 along with the requisite LV je ne sais quoi are objects chosen by Tokujin Yoshioka, creator of the model’s journey equipment. 

Most lately, the maison dipped its culinary arm’s gilded fingers into that enduring jet-setters’ hang-out, Saint Tropez, with Mory Sacko at Louis Vuitton, a heavenly seaside venue the place African and Japanese influences meet distinctive French gastronomy in a connoisseur menu that’s largely vegetable-driven. 


Stretched throughout three continents is Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura. The flagship restaurant, positioned in Florence’s Palazzo della Mercanzia, includes a most important eating room, a Room of Mirrors and a personal perform room, which collectively represent chef Karime Lopez’s culinary imaginative and prescient. Inexperienced fillets framing the principle eating room’s partitions are inscribed with a lyric from Lorenzo de Medici’s Fifteenth-century carnival tune, “Sette pianeti siam, che l’alte sede lasciam per far del cielo in terra fede” – the archaic Tuscan interprets as, “We’re seven planets, leaving the Holy See to make Heaven on Earth religion.”

The spiritual overtones don’t finish on the ominous quotes, nonetheless. Beneath the arched ceiling, the principle eating room homes an intricately carved wood station resembling a confessional sales space, which stands in concord with Florentine furnishings and stone plaques depicting historic crests. The one-Michelin-star Osteria’s menu options elevated revisions of dishes that inform Lopez’s cosmopolitan way of life, particularly pork buns, burgers, tortellini and purple corn tostada, in addition to extra historically luxurious delicacies, comparable to Chianina beef with caviar and truffle and Florentine lamb with tomatoes and jalapeño. 

On the other aspect of the pond, in Beverly Hills, Osteria drops the heavy-handed Italian influences in favour of California sensibilities. Referred by Gucci as “an embassy of contemporary Italian culinary artwork”, Osteria Beverly Hills is dominated by chef Mattia Agazzi, who honed his expertise on the three-Michelin-star Cerea Brothers in Bergamo. Right here, Osteria Florence’s inexperienced motifs are reinterpreted as industrial metallic beams, adorning the terrace and potted greenery all through the inside.

There are bursts of pink, after all, within the form of velvet couches, and a contact of gold within the embroidery of the plump armchairs. Right here, diners can benefit from the Beverly Hills classics, comparable to Cod as Milanese and Risotto Camouflaged as Pizza, in addition to a beef ribeye with cotechino and salsa verde, cutely named Mini Me.


A lesser recognized but no much less exceptional trendy eating institution is Elsa’s Cocktail Bar, named after Italian couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, at gallerists Hauser & Wirth’s Fife Arms lodge close to Braemar in Scotland. A first-rate instance of artwork, trend and mixology crystallising in a single house, it’s intimate, subtle and self-indulgent in the most effective sense of the phrases, bringing artwork deco and elevated surrealism into the austere Highland wilderness.

The bar’s star cocktail, Stunning Pink – it’s constructed from dark-matter rhubarb liqueur, Aelder (wild elderberry elixir), prosecco and, curiously, a sprig of Stunning Pink fragrance created by the home in 1937 – is supposed to function a visible illustration of the designer’s epigram, “In troublesome occasions, trend is at all times outrageous.” Now, in the end, this author gained’t must guzzle Stunning Pink by itself within the hopes of ingesting a few of Schiaparelli’s genius. 


There are numerous extra, after all. Greater than mere six pages may probably comprise. There’s Tiffany’s lately opened Blue Field in Harrod’s, the place the self-proclaimed Audrey Hepburns are provided an expertly devised main-character second enshrined in jewels and Tiffany-blue velvet.

We hear the buttered croissants and eggs Florentine are value committing a felony for. In Fondazione Prada’s Torre, in Milan, guests can deal with themselves to a four-hand dinner created by chef Lorenzo Lunghi in collaboration with a younger worldwide chef – a brand new one every month – and all within the firm of magnificent artworks by Thomas Demand, Jeff Koons, Goshka Macuga and John Wesley. To not point out Ralph’s Espresso in Ocean Terminal and Prince’s Constructing, with its wealthy single-origin Colombian espresso and lava custard mooncakes.


It appears that evidently quenching a thirst for couture and, concurrently, sating a starvation for haute delicacies might be carried out within the consolation of a single boutique – “a glamorous life,” as Desiree Armfeldt would possibly say. So why not let the cake crumbs christen – and Christian Dior – that model new costume?

This story first appeared on PrestigeOnline Hong Kong